last night we pulled up to find flawless conditions again.
little lines connected from one mysto peak to the next,
Grinning a bit more after each wave spit us out
everything seemed on point, 1 paddle entries, long paddles back out- always just in time for the next set to darken on the horrizon.
as I took my last one in, pushing it waaay beyond the typical exit spot
it happened
hello rocky shoreline. bye bye pristine volan vehicle with your perfect lap lays.
every action there is an equal and opposite reaction
some laws are more painful to remember than others
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